Zenato Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore “Ripassa”

5 days ago

3 min read

At a Glance

Producer: Zenato
Region: Valpolicella, Veneto, northeastern Italy
Classification: Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore DOC
Grapes: Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella
Style: Concentrated, velvety red with cherry, plum, spice and chocolate notes
Winemaking: Valpolicella wine undergoes a second fermentation on the grape skins left from Amarone production, followed by oak aging.

What to Look For

Dark cherry, plum, a little chocolate and warm spice. Pay attention to the texture, too: the fruit has depth, and the tannins feel polished, but there is freshness underneath that keeps the wine moving.

That balance is what makes this style so appealing to me. You get a generous mouthful without losing the invitation to take another sip.

Why This Wine?

If you love a substantial red with ripe fruit, a smooth texture and a finish that hangs around, there is a lot here for you.

There's a satisfying sense of richness, with a different flavor emphasis. Ripassa takes me toward dark cherry, plum and dried-fruit depth. Cabernet more often takes me toward cassis, blackberry and cedar.

I also find Ripassa’s tannins feel more velvety than the firm grip I expect from many Cabernets. It is a different route to a rich red—and a very delicious one.

What Does Ripasso Mean?

Ripasso means “repassing,” and the name describes the process.

First, Zenato makes Valpolicella wine. Separately, it makes Amarone from dried grapes. After the Amarone fermentation, the selected Valpolicella wine is passed over the remaining grape skins, called pomace. A second fermentation brings additional body, flavor and structure. Oak aging follows.

Ripasso is the method and wine category. Ripassa is Zenato’s name for its wine.

That distinction helps when you are looking at a shelf or wine list: other wineries make Ripasso, but this particular Ripassa comes from Zenato.

Remember Objekt 18?

Our move from last month’s Austrian wines to this month’s Veneto reds has a very specific thread.

Esterházy’s Objekt 18 used Blaufränkisch grapes dried before fermentation—an Amarone-inspired approach that produced concentrated dark fruit, dried-fruit notes and spice.

Ripassa connects to Amarone through a different stage of the process. Its starting point is already-fermented Valpolicella wine, which then gains richness through contact with Amarone’s grape skins.

So, when you taste them, look for a family resemblance in their concentrated fruit and depth. Then notice the differences: Austrian Blaufränkisch brings its own dark, spicy character, while this Italian blend centers on Corvina and its cherry-led personality.

Last month gave us an Austrian interpretation of an Italian idea. This month takes us into the region behind that inspiration.

About Zenato: The Hills Behind the Reds

With Alanera, we looked at Zenato’s beginnings near Lake Garda. For Ripassa, we go to the hills.

The family’s Costalunga estate is in Sant’Ambrogio di Valpolicella, one of the five villages of the historic Valpolicella Classico area. Its hillside vineyards have calcium-rich soils, sedimentary rock and the local reddish earth known as terra rossa.

That is a useful reminder when tasting a wine with such a distinctive production method: there is still a place underneath the process. Ripassa’s identity begins with the local grapes and vineyards; the Amarone skins add another layer.

Pair With

This is where I want braised beef, mushroom-rich dishes, a slow-cooked ragù, or a generous piece of aged cheese. I would also happily put it beside meatloaf with onion gravy.

If you have both this month’s wines, try Alanera first, then Ripassa. Compare the cherry character, the weight through the middle of your mouth, and how long each finish lasts. It is a lovely way to explore two approaches to the richness that drew us toward Amarone in the first place.