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Berger Grüner Veltliner
At a Glance
Producer: Erich and Maria Berger
Region: Kremstal, Austria
Grape: 100% Grüner Veltliner
Style: Dry white wine
ABV: 11%
Bottle: 1 liter
Pronounced: BAIR-ger GROO-ner VELT-lee-ner
What to Look For
Look for lime, green apple, pear and a little white pepper. It is crisp, dry and light, with enough acidity to keep it refreshing.
I really liked it!
Why This Wine?
Despite the name, Oktoberfest happens mostly in September. The first Oktoberfest was held in Munich in October 1810 to celebrate the marriage of Crown Prince Ludwig and Princess Therese. The celebration became an annual event, then gradually moved earlier to take advantage of September’s warmer weather and longer days. It still ends in October, which apparently was enough to keep the name.
Munich is in Bavaria, the southern German state that borders Austria. For our September (Oktoberfest) Wine Club, I wanted to explore the wines of that broader part of the world.
Grüner Veltliner is Austria’s most widely planted grape. Its acidity, citrus and peppery character make it particularly good with sausage, schnitzel, mustard and other rich, salty foods.
I liked the Berger immediately. It is dry, crisp and fresh, with a little peppery edge.
It also comes in a full liter bottle, which is one-third more wine than a standard bottle.
No complaints there.
What Is Grüner Veltliner?
Grüner Veltliner is Austria’s signature white grape.
It can produce everything from very light everyday wines to serious bottles capable of aging. The common thread is usually freshness, citrus, green fruit and a slightly spicy character.
The classic description is white pepper.
I’m always a little skeptical when wine descriptions become too specific, but the peppery quality is useful here. It gives Grüner something savory that separates it from a purely fruity white wine.
If Sauvignon Blanc can be grassy and Riesling can be floral, Grüner often lands somewhere greener, quieter and more peppery.
About Berger
Erich and Maria Berger’s family winery is in Gedersdorf, on the eastern side of Austria’s Kremstal region. The estate farms about 25 hectares. This Grüner comes from estate-grown fruit planted largely in loess soils and is fermented in stainless steel.
Loess is a fine, windblown soil that can hold water well—useful in a dry growing region. It is pronounced roughly LESS.
The stainless-steel fermentation keeps the focus on the fruit, acidity and natural peppery character of the grape rather than adding oak flavor.
This is not meant to be the largest or most complicated Grüner Veltliner in Austria.
It is meant to be opened and consumed.
The liter bottle seems to understand the assignment.
Kremstal
Kremstal is a wine region along the Danube in Lower Austria, centered around the town of Krems.
The region combines warm days with cooler nights, which helps grapes ripen while preserving acidity. Grüner Veltliner and Riesling are its two most important white grapes.
Kremstal is pronounced KREM-stahl.
The area has several soil types, but the loess terraces around Gedersdorf are particularly well suited to Grüner Veltliner.
Pair With
Grüner is lovely with food.
Try it with:
Sausage and mustard
Schnitzel
Roasted chicken
Pork
Salads and green vegetables
Goat cheese
Seafood
Anything with herbs
It can also handle foods that make some wines difficult, including asparagus and other green vegetables. For our Oktoberfest month, sausage is the obvious answer.
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